Jean Varon and John Bates: The Story Behind the Vintage Label

A Jean Varon label is a good reason to pause when looking through vintage clothing. Behind the name is British designer John Bates, whose work belongs to the story of fashion in the 1960s and 1970s.

It is a label that rewards a closer look, especially if you enjoy clothes with an unusual silhouette or an unexpected combination of fabrics.

Who designed Jean Varon clothing?

John Bates was the designer behind Jean Varon.

His work helped shape the fashion associated with Swinging London. One particularly well-documented part of his career was designing outfits for Diana Rigg as Emma Peel in The Avengers in 1965.

The Walker Art Gallery later explored his work in its “John Bates at Jean Varon” display, bringing together examples of his clothing from the 1960s and 1970s.

Museum collections give us a useful way to understand these garments beyond the label: how they were designed, worn and placed within their period.

Look beyond the familiar image of sixties fashion

It is easy to reduce 1960s clothing to a handful of familiar shapes. Surviving garments often tell a more varied story.

A tunic worn over trousers, contrasting velvet details or a striking patterned fabric can be every bit as interesting as a mini dress. Looking at the complete outfit helps explain the designer’s choices.

With a coordinated set, I particularly like seeing how the pieces relate to one another: where a trim is repeated, how the proportions work and what happens when they are worn together.

What should you check when buying vintage Jean Varon?

Start with clear photographs of the label and the garment itself. Look closely at seams, fastenings, lining and any areas of wear.

For a two-piece outfit, check the measurements of both garments. A jacket or tunic may fit comfortably while the matching trousers or skirt do not.

A designer label also cannot establish an exact year by itself. Dating should take account of the design and construction, supported by archive comparisons where available.

The pleasure of finding Jean Varon is the chance to examine a piece of British design history that can still have a place in a wardrobe today.

Have you owned a Jean Varon piece, or remember seeing the label in the shops?