Jean Varon and John Bates beyond the familiar fashion names

A Jean Varon label can lead you to one of the most interesting names in British vintage fashion: John Bates. For anyone who enjoys clothes that do something a little unexpected, his work is worth getting to know.

Bates was an influential British designer during the 1960s and 1970s. Jean Varon was his label, and its story belongs alongside the better-known names associated with the changing fashions of Swinging London.

A connection with The Avengers

A major moment came in 1965, when Bates designed clothes for Diana Rigg’s character Emma Peel in The Avengers. An exhibition account preserved by University of the Arts London identifies that collection as a breakthrough for the label.

The television connection helps explain his place in the period, but it is only part of the story. The same exhibition included daywear and eveningwear, chiefly from the 1970s: a reminder to look beyond a single famous outfit when exploring a designer’s work.

Eveningwear with a different approach

The Jean Varon tunic and trouser ensemble photographed for Pretty Vintage Boutique makes an interesting alternative to a conventional evening dress. Its patterned tunic combines black, gold and cream with contrasting velvet at the neckline, waist and cuffs. Black velvet trousers continue the outfit beneath it.

The contrast between the patterned surface and the darker sections is what I would draw attention to in photographs. A full outfit view explains the proportions; a closer image shows how those contrasting fabrics meet.

The catalogue describes the ensemble as believed to be 1960s. Unless further documentation establishes a year, it is better to keep that qualified dating.

Looking at an original Jean Varon piece

With a set, examine and measure both garments. Check whether their fabrics, construction and labels support the description, and ask whether any belt or separate component shown is included.

Velvet benefits from photographs in even light so you can see changes in the pile. Delicate patterned fabrics need close inspection around seams and fastenings. Alterations can also affect fit, even when a label appears untouched.

Wearing it now

An original coordinated outfit gives you options. Wear the pieces together for the full effect, or consider how each might work with clothes already in your wardrobe, provided their condition allows regular wear.

Explore the Jean Varon pieces for photographs, measurements and individual descriptions.